Roads and driving

Roads

You may not consider this a very interesting subject in a blog, so feel free to skip over it!

Since arriving in Costa Rica, we have encountered a variety of roads in varying conditions and I felt it was worth, briefly, describing the roads and driving in Costa Rica.

Firstly, a note about cars.  We had read on various websites and blogs that it was important to hire/rent a 4x4 vehicle and as a consequence we ended up with the Suzuki Jimny.  From our very brief experience we would probably endorse the recommendation but not for the 4-wheel drive capability, but for the ground clearance.  That said, we have been traveling during the dry (and hot) season, I'm told that the 4-wheel drive capability is more useful in the wet season!  I think I that a more 'rugged' vehicle is a bonus to on the some of the rougher roads.

We have found a real variety of road surfaces as we have been driving around the country.  Some roads that appear to be the 'main' road between two communities and perhaps the only connection may well turn out to be a gravel road.  This has a consequence when calculating traveling time as most of the time 25-30kph is the maximum speed possible, although the locals may well travel a lot faster.  You may find that you think your fillings will be rattled out of your teeth on some roads!

The Pan American Highway (routes 1 and 2) is apparently paved all the way through the country, north to south.  We have only travelled on the part between Liberia and just north of San Jose and a short stretch in the south of the country.  The Costanera Sur, or route 34, is paved all the way down the coast.  The highway between Puntarenas and San Jose seems to be a 4-lane highway and a toll is payable for using it.  The road across the southern Nicoya Peninsula is also paved from the ferry terminal at Paquera to Cobano. Other than that there are no paved roads in the south of the peninsular.  At the time of writing, March 2014, the Pan American Highway (route 1) south of Liberia is undergoing major road improvements and for nearly 50km it is very slow going.

Despite the fact that Monteverde is a major tourist destination, there is no paved road up to Santa Elena and Monteverde although the roads in both towns are surfaced.  The shortest section of unpaved road up to the mountains is the southern approach from near Puntarenas.

Most of the roads down to beaches are gravel and any roads to hotels and properties are also likely to be gravel. When I say gravel, it is a bit of a misnomer as mostly it is largish stones embedded in the sand/mud and makes for an extremely bumpy ride.  Frequently, particularly on corners on hills a 'washboard' effect makes the surface particularly unpleasant.

We had been warned about driving standards, but overall, we haven't found it too frightening!  True, drivers do overtake with low speed limits in villages and also on double-white or yellow lines and rarely stick to the speed limit, but if you drive defensively and let other traffic pass you, it isn't too bad.  I have to say that I would not recommend driving at night as the roads are poorly marked and it is difficult to see the centre-line or the edges of the roads.  Also, the lorry drivers seem to rule the road at night and drive quite aggresively.  I suspect wildlife might be an issue at night on poorly lit roads.

You will encounter a lot of bicycle traffic, many with more than one rider on board, give them a wide berth.  Compared with UK, there isn't much traffic on the roads.  Other things you may encounter are dogs and cattle loose on the road.  We have also had to avoid Iguanas, some of which are quite large.

Finally, the ferries between Puntarenas and Paquera.  The first ferry is at 05.30 in the morning and the last at 20.30.  I think the rest of the ferries run at 08.00, 11.00, 14.00 and 17.00.  I'm told that it is worth turning up at least 45 minutes before departure as you can only buy tickets at the ferry terminal.  That said, we turned up 5 minutes after departure, but still managed to buy tickets and get on the ferry.  The procedure at the port is odd, only the driver is allowed in the vehicle when you embark and disembark.  Other passengers have to show their ticket and walk onto the ferry.  It is a bit of a scramble for your passengers to rejoin you on the Paquera side as there isn't much parking!

Apparently, petrol prices are set by the Government, so it is no use looking for cheap fuel.  Fuel prices, by UK standards at least, are cheap and most petrol (gas) stations have diesel, normal and premium petrol (gas) and pumps are always attended.

We have secured the vehicle every time we have stopped with the fitted transmission lock and left nothing of value in the vehicle.  Some people say they leave cars unlocked too so that no damage is done.  So far, we have locked the vehicle and suffered no damage.

We had read that the Costa Rica Police were very hot on traffic offences.  The truth is that we haven't often see the Police and those we have seen were just driving at the ambient speed limit rather than the posted limit!  They do set up check points radomly, but in our experience if you just drive slowly past and give a cheery wave, they don't seem interested in tourists.

On a courtesy point, on smaller and gravel roads, all road-users seem to acknowledge other road-users with a wave, especially if you have made way for them or let them go past you.

Overall, driving in Costa Rica isn't as scary as some internet sites and blogs would have you believe.  Drive defensively and you will have a good trip!